In the middle of the mostly residential Milton there lies a restaurant, a Sedgwick restaurant. Not one of the Sedgwick Group of restaurants, but the same family. This restaurant is The Union and you need to try it, although my telling you this is spoiling Milton’s best kept secret.
There are 4 ways to get there: Birmingham Highway to Providence Road, Freemanville Road to Providence Road, Bethany to Providence Road or Mayfield to Providence Road. Just keep going until you are among the horse farms and 1+ acre lot neighborhoods and you’re there.
Back in the day, on the lot where The Union now stands, there was a little shack called Shelia’s Barbecue – one of my favorites in the area. Shelia left and it was a farmstand for about a minute. Then, the next thing I recall, the shack was torn down and this new farmhouse looking restaurant came along – The Union. The husband and I tried it years ago, right after it opened.
I went to The Union with the Gal Pals recently on a Thursday night. We got there at 5:30, which was smart, because it filled up fast. The Gals ordered the crab dip which was cheesy and good – not outstanding – but pleasant. Among the three of us we had 2 different entrees. Sally Field had the Chicken Schnitzel – ever so slightly chewy, but with an excellent crust and a capery/lemony flavor. Jessica Lange and I each had the Steak Frites. I had a hankering for a hanger steak which, when cooked correctly, is an intrinsically tough cut of meat miraculously made tender. I was pleased that the cook did it right. This may have been one of the better hanger steaks I’ve eaten, in fact. The Union serves this steak with chimichurri sauce, and though I like my chimichurri more parsley-ish, it was a good, garlicky sauce. The Gal Pals feigned a lack of interest in dessert but I took the bull by the horns and ordered beignets and coffee. Please know that I measure my beignets by the former Huey’s on Peachtree Road in Buckhead, to which no other beignets compare, including The Union’s, but they were good. Most people would call them great.
Ah. But I forgot to start with the best part of the evening. I asked the wonderful waitress (a Sedgwick gal) to bring me a Caipirinha. Yes, I know it’s December, but what can I say? Ever since I had my first Caipirinha at The El Felix, I’ve been wanting another….and another…. But seriously, I’ve been wanting to compare. So, in case you don’t know, the Caipirinha is a simple drink: Cachaca 51, lime and simple syrup. It’s Brazilian. The results of my comparison? The Union wins. That bartender knew what she was doing.
Out of 4 stars, I’d probably give The Union a 3. Go. Try this neighborhood hideaway but get there early before the locals get all the tables.